The alarm went off too
early. Laying in my bed, I heard drips on the roof. I hoped the gray
I saw through the cracks in the curtain meant rain. Oh, to lounge
around all day reading and listening to rain, maybe venture out for
food, return for more lazing and a beer or glass of red at the
appropriate time.
But it was fog. Thick,
heavy fog which had condensed on the large tree overseeing the house
and the drips were the very same, succumbing to gravity, giving false
hope to this occupant under the eaves.
Coffee was started, the ride
prep began. Clothes, chamois cream, heart rate monitor (corset)...
what am I forgetting? I feel like I'm forgetting something. Out to
the car to look over my stuff. Shoes, helmet, gloves, food, money,
ID.... Back in. Perchance, to open the fridge. Water bottles! Sheesh!
Various false starts later, we arrive at the start, which is when I
realize I forgot my headband. There Will Be Sweat. Good thing I
didn't apply sunscreen above my eyebrows or it would be a stinging,
sticky sweat dripping into my eyes instead of just salt crystals. You
know, clean sweat. (yeah, right).
The mass start was at
7:30. We ended up starting about 15 minutes late, playing catch up to
the pack. We missed the pros and all but had the road to ourselves.
It was still overcast and cool. Fortunately, the air was still, and
the first 12 miles offered up one little bump which allowed us a
friendly descent before we rolled into the first rest stop. The road
cut through farmland and meadows, and Western Meadowlarks perched on
the barbed wire and serenaded us with their flute-like calls. A male
American Kestrel hovered then landed on an overhead line, its rusty
body accented with blue-gray wings. Something large and back-lit
kited above a hill, probably a White-tailed Kite, but it was hard to
bird and ride, and safety seemed like a priority. The shape was wrong
for a Red-tail, but that's all I could tell.
double decker bike. photo by Jason Henry, sfgate.com |
It was between the rest
stop and turning on to Highway 1 on the way to Morro Bay that we
encountered an unusual site: a double-decker bike. The rider was a
20-something Burner (we assumed) and handled it pretty well. It looked like the bike to the left. It was
obvious he was used to answering questions about his frame upon frame
(but still with two sets of pedals – who cares about the extra
weight?) and vertical drive train. He was riding with a group (on
“normal bicycles”) and the height of his rig acted like a beacon
for his group. Heck. It acted like a beacon for us. We speculated on
the effect of the wind, how he mounted his 2012 version of a
penny-farthing (right foot on the (lower) left chain stay, give a
push like a scooter and climb up quickly while it rolls), the weight,
center of gravity on downhills... and then, when we started the climb
that punctuated the ride profile like a giant spike in the flats, Jim
decided that he officially hated him as he watched this youngster
pull away from us on his double-steel frame (with extra bracing)
bicycle. The least of it being that he knew how late the others in
his group were up drinking (past 2AM) meaning he had been up that
late as well. And still kicked our butts. Youth continues to be
wasted on the young.
So, of course, the
aforementioned climb cut through a valley which was sheltered from
the coast. We passed a large orange grove. I decided I needed to come
back in February and ride this just to smell the blossoms. Nestled in
this valley bracketed by impossibly steep slopes, there wasn't nary a
breeze, either. As we cut through, the fog burned off the hillsides
in front of us, revealing cows grazing precariously on nearly
vertical pastures. Wisps of moisture lifted off the brown grassland
like dry ice vaporizing from a cauldron. At one switchback, I turned
and looked behind me at the golden hills towering above and the misty
valley below, tiny tendrils of dying fog reaching skyward.
I'd done a little
research on the hill profile. I knew there was about a mile and a
half of 11-13% grade in near the end of the first stage, and I had
already assumed it would be exposed based on what I knew of the
topography. Translation, the sun shone upon us as we slogged and
spun. Half the distance of the steep part of Tunitas Creek, I had
said, but without the shade. Still, it wasn't as hot or exposed as
climbing the back side of Ebbetts (and only a third of that) and
there was some scattered shade here and there. The sweat dripped from
under my helmet onto my route sheet. Spin. Grunt. Drip. Spin. Grunt.
Drip. (mental whine). Drip. Drip. I watched the mileage and counted
down to what I thought would be the end of the steep bit. Finally, I
encountered a friendly photographer who told me three more bends and
I'd be at the top. I chose not to believe him because I hate false
hope. What if he miscounted? What does he consider a bend? What does
he consider the top?
At last, the top and a
nice little down to the second rest stop and Highway 46. It really
was three bends.
One of the reasons I
signed up for this ride, and the century distance in particular, was
to do the downhill on Highway 46 that stretches for about 10 miles
from about 1700 feet to the coast and about sea level. It's also how I sold the ride. I'd
done it twice before on the AIDS ride and wanted to do it again with
my new descending skills learned from all that Death Ride training. I
wanted to fly, knowing I'd never really need to hit my brakes – the
road is wide, the shoulder is wide, the grade gradual, and the
corners sweeping. No hairpins, no poor visibility, no potholes or
tire-eating crevices. I asked Jim to take my picture at the top –
it's the half-way point on the AIDS ride and I wanted to acknowledge
that little bit of my cycling history.
It would be the last time
we saw the sun. Here, I'd worn my 5-Pass finisher jersey and it was
hidden under my vest all day.
Knowing the descent would
be cool no matter what, we pulled up the arm warmers, zippered our
vests and pulled back out onto 46. Straight into a fog bank. And head
winds. The fog was blowing in. Hard. Normally, this descent has
amazing views to the coast, of golden hills, cows below, hawks above.
Instead, visibility was
about 50 feet. Pedaling hard into the wind to maintain 30 mph (last
time I did it, I was braking at 40+ mph), ghostly cyclists emerged
from the fog as I approached. I regretted having turned off my
taillight at the last rest stop, but I wasn't stopping to turn it on.
My glasses were completely opaque with fog drops and I looked over
the lenses, the wind whipping my eyes and making them tear. I felt as
if I had been robbed. I'd been talking up this descent, forcing a
recovering riding partner to do more miles than he felt up to, just
so we could do this descent. And this. Headwinds, soaking fog. No
thrill, just chills. Broken promises and shattered expectations.
When we hit the coast,
considering the wind we just battled, knowing if we turned north for
the out and back to Cambria we'd have an extra 12 miles of headwinds
to chew through. As I told Jim at the rest stop, I was only in it for
the down hill and didn't care about doing 100 miles. He was still
recovering from the plague and why over do it?
We took a (unanimous)
vote and headed south towards Harmony (population 18!) and Cayucos
and shaved 25 miles from our route. We worked hard to push forward,
fighting a headwind in a wind tunnel. After a few
miles, we saw the ocean. Unfortunately, this only meant more wind.
After what seemed like far too long, we arrived in the charming
coastal town of Cayucos for our lunch stop. It was overcast and still
chilly. I made the mistake of taking off my helmet, which meant it
was cold and damp when I put it back on, giving me a further chill.
In need of caffeine, we stopped at a market for a coke. Maybe we
should have gone for an espresso.
Cayucos is a two stop
sign town and tiny beach resort. Quaint shops line the road and you
can almost feel the wooden sidewalks of yore. Hotels and motels
border the shopping and dining “district” and cute bungalows are
perched over the beach. Some folks have gone upscale, but the
favorite was the house with the mural of a humpback whale (and entire
under sea scene) breaching near an American flag on the garage door.
If we hadn't been so cold, we might have searched for the NRA logo
and Romney/Ryan campaign sign embedded in the mural, but instead, we
pressed on.
This stretch of the ride
incorporated far too much riding on Highway 1 – later in the day,
the vehicles on the road were less careful of us cyclists than they
were at 9AM. Cars and pickups that could have moved over into the
left lane to give us a safety zone just plain didn't. However,
Highway 1 led us through Cuesta College to the best rest stop of the
day – somehow, it was connected to HTC Highroad. It was at a
residence, and the garage was filled with framed, signed jerseys and
photos of cyclists I didn't recognize (this is not surprising). The
array of food was the best all day: the usual bananas, etc. buffet
was supplemented with cookies (even gluten free), brownies, chocolate
and, most welcome, strong hot coffee. It was also the only stop that
had a semblance of a bike rack to hang our bikes on while we enjoyed
the hospitality. The penned geese and chickens stared at our brightly
colored clothing and silly vehicles (seriously – they watched all
the cyclists who stopped very intently – I've been hissed at by
geese before so I kept my distance). Overhead, Red-shouldered Hawks
protested and wheeled, chasing off at least one Coopers Hawk in their
airspace.
Reasonably refreshed, we
hopped back on the bikes for the last 10 miles. Turning inland
towards San Luis Obispo, while I can't say we had a tail wind (which
means we probably did...) we were no longer battling against wind. A
bit later, we were back at the car, having done our own version of a
Medio Fondo which incorporated nearly all of the climbing of the full
Century and more mileage than the metric that was offered. A fine job
on the bike making the best of less than ideal circumstances.
Post ride beer: Lagunitas
IPA.